Day 10 was another rest day in beautiful San Pedro.

Day 11, 348km, San Antonio de los Cobres

Our second attempt to cross the Andes to Argentinia via Paso de Sica. We’ve made it! We packed our stuff and had an easy start. We probably took it a bit too easy as we didn’t leave before noon which was a bit of a risk to reach San Antonio de los Cobres in daylight. This is the first village in Argentinia on our route, 120km after the border.

The first 100km after San Pedro are paved, 248km offroad  after this. On the Chilean side they have started some roadworks, I guess in a few years this part will be paved too. We climbed up the Andes, beautiful landscape with colorful lagunas and small salt flats. Sometimes it felt riding in different world. We rode up to 4500m a few times but never below 3800m. It was really useful to get used to the altitude in San Pedro before climbing higher. Every physical activity requires more energy in those heights but no problem so far. We reached the border located at 3800m on a huge plateau and we were the only people there. TheChilean and Argentinen border has a shared office, 5 officers did their job and after a few stamps and 45min we were good to go. No issues to bring our german registered bikes into Argentinia. 120km left to San Antonio. The track conditions are worse on this side. Very bumpy but at around 90kmh you get the least vibrations although the bike is moving a lot. But after a while you get used to it. We arrived late in San Antonio and decided not to camp today because it was getting dark already. We found a litte hostal and were surprised how many bikes were parked up there. Again we met nice people, a couple from Belgium, journalists who are on a RTW trip. Another couple from Uruguay and Sasha, a tour guide from Buenos Aires waiting for his group of 10 enduro riders. He gave us very useful route tips and waypoints for the next days.

Day 12, 181km, Seclantas

We left San Antonio in direction Cachi still following the famous routa 40. We climbed from 3800m to 5000m. Very thin air, also for the KTM which lost half of its power. When we arrived on the top we met a group of Argentinian bikers. Nice guys who were facinated about the fact that we are travelling through South America on bikes we shipped from Germany. In Argentinia a import bike or car is 3 times (!) the of the price in Germany because of very high import tax. Having modern bikes like ours is something for rich people here. After they have taken a photo from us we continued. Today is 100% offroad and very very dusty. We have to keep a distance of around 500m between us to make sure we’re not eating dust all the time. After a very nice riding day through beautiful canyons we arrived at Martina and Johan’s place were we will camp. Andres who we met in Chile recommended that place and we also found it on the iOverlander app which is very useful for offroad adventures on two and four wheels. Martina is german and has travelled all over the world on her bike. She and here boyfriend Johan from South Africa bought a piece of land beginning of the year where they are buliding a little round clay house to live and a nice green garden where overlanders can camp in a postcard moutain panorama. Pure nature, no mobile phone coverage, internet or electricity but an unbelievable view to the stars as there is no light polution.

Day 13, 318km, Huafin

We left Matina’s place after a cold night (-5degC) and headed towards Huafin via Cafayate. The first 120km were dirt tracks only, bumpy and a lot of sand but through stunning canyons. Reminded me a bit of Utah. After lunch in Cafayate, located in a well known Argentinian wine area we continued to Huafin. We arrived just before sundown and decided to stay in a little guest house. Cheap, only 250 Pesos for the night, friendly people and also a locked garage for the bikes. Early start tomorrow because we do not need to pack our camping gear.

Day 14, 228km, Antofagasta de la Sierra

Left early, fueled the bikes and after 30km onroad it was gravel road only. Tracks were getting more and more difficult, deep sand and heavy side winds. The front of the bike is quite light because all the luggage is in rear. That is good for riding sand but bad with side winds. My front wheel got blown to the side a few times but I luckily managed to keep the rubber down. We arrived early in Antofagasta and checked in a old and shity place, the only one available. But still better than camping because the winds are very strong winds and the temps very cold at night. We met Sahsha again and the other enduro riders on their light 450s.

Day 15, 262km, Tolar Grande

After we got some final tips from Sasha which route to take we refuled the bikes. Very bad fuel which stinks when burned. But this was the only option available in a radius of 200km. We took enough water and food with us because there is no infastructure at all along the way. Also mobile phones do not work. For emergency we carry a sattelite tracker.  Another full day of offroad riding between 3500-4500m. Terrain was very challenging today, big rocks, stones and many grooves from erosion. Some sections were so bumpy that we thought our bikes want make it to the end of the day. Luckily they did without any problems. We didn’t see anybody on our way. We past two villages. Can’t call it village really, a couple of houses only. The first was Antofalla, the second Antofallita where we stopped for lunch to fill up our energy levels. Only one guy lives there and he was happy to see us, probably the only people passing by today. Today was the most scenic ride we had so far. Unbelievable beautiful and colorful mountains, salt lakes, many apacas, mules and a coyote along our way. Sometimes it felt like riding on Mars. The last salt lake we past has a black pyramide on the flat. We took some pictures and rode over the salt flat which allowed us switching to top gear for the first time of the day. We arrived in Tolar Grande, a very small village for mine workers only. We slept in a municipal dorm and were the only guests.

Day 16, 199km, San Antonio de los Cobres

Offroad back to San Antonio our last stop in Argentina. Still spectacular route through the desert but less technical compare to yesterday. We couldn’t refuel since Antofagasta but we still have enough fuel to get there. Well, that what we thought. Usually the range is 600km with our twin tank but at 370km my reserve light went on with still 100km to go. Onroad I probably can do 70-80km still but not offroad on sand and uphill. We discussed what to do and decided to carry on until I ran out of fuel and then fill up Daniels bike with whatever is left in Thomas bike to get some fuel. Also we had some fuel left in the fuel bottles of our cookers and in my extra tank is about 1.5l left which remains in the tank because of the fuel line layout. But then, haven’t seen anybody for ages, there was a pickup parked up in front if us. We stopped and I asked the driver if he has some fuel to spare. Luckily he said that they have a depot for fuel 10min away. He is working for a drilling company, searching for silicium in the desert. I jumped in his van and we drove to the depot and filled up a jerry can. He tolded me the place where we fueled up is known for mixing fuel with water and kerosin to make more profit. That explains why the exhaust gas smelt so bad and our range is so low. But we didn’t had a chance to fill up somewhere else. We were lucky that the bikes run ok with this fuel. That was a probably a preview of the fuel type we we will get in Bolivia. They didn’t want to take my money, he just wanted a photo with us and said he was in the same situation as well and just wants to help like someone else had helped him before. I insisted to buy him a beer at least and left some money is his car. After we refueld the bike we were safe to get to San Antonio. 

Day 17, 400km, San Pedro de Atacama

Final day in Argentinia. We’re driving north on the routa 40 to Susques. 120km offroad and then over the Paso de Jama back to Chile which is paved. Passing the border to Chile took around 1.5h. It seems that Chileans are most scared off someone bringing fruits and vegetables into the country. After being searches we had 160km to go to San Pedro. 120km where between 4200-4800m altitude with very heavy winds from all directions. Sometimes I had to shift down to 4th gear and with wide open throttle I just reached 85kmh due to the altitude and the winds. Very cold up there, still snow on the side of the road. The last 40km to San Pedro are truly specatcular as we went down from 4800m to 2500m. It was like riding from a fridge into the oven. We will stay in the same camp in San Pedro again in  for 3 days, do some mainteance on the bikes, relax and fill up our energy levels before we ride into Bolivia on the lagune route which will be very challenging.