Chirumpiari, Day 49, 288km

Back to the main road from Hidroelectrica to Kimbiri. What we thought is a smooth day of riding ended as the hardest day since I’m riding bikes. At the beginning the road was paved. Very narrow, twisty and through the jungle along the river. We were wondering why there was almost no traffic, not even locals, on a route we thought which is the quickest from Machu Pichu to Lima. After a late lunch in a little village the road ended and and it was only dirt track from there. The night before it has rained a lot, unusual according to the locals. We had to get over a mountain, only from 500m up to 2000m but through jungle roads. A lot of sections of the track were blocked by landslides and torrents, some smaller, some bigger but still rideable. The soil couldn’t cope with the amount of rain that has come down. However, when we reached the top it was very foggy and half an hour before sundown we still had 70km to go to Kimbiri. All of a sudden we got stopped by the Peruanian army at a check point. Passports and bike documents please. First we thought it is a bit strange that there is an army post in this remote area. Maybe this is not the real army but some other paramilitary group. But it was all fine, buen viaje, 2h to Kimbiri. We continued and just wanted to get down of the mountain to find some place to sleep before darkness. It continued as on the way up, crossing torrents but they got worse and worse. Then we came to one with a very heavy current, carrying mud and rocks and approximately knee deep. By then it was dark already. Turning back was no option, this would have been all the way back to Cusco, around 300km. So, 1st gear and and a good portion of throttle. Have way through I felt down. The current was so strong and span the rear wheel around. I was completely under water, pushed the kill switch and just managed to hold on to the bike. Daniel came to help me and we managed to put the bike up again. Started the engine again and we tried to push the bike out of the river. But the rear wheel sank deeper and deeper into the ground and many stones hit the bike and found their way into every gap in the engine area and wheels. At this time I thought I will loose my bike and it will be flushed down the valley by the river. I still don‘t know how but after 20min we managed to get my bike to the other side. But there was still Daniels bike. We decided to take all lugguage off  to reduce the weight and figured out a different route, more in line with the current. He probably came 2m further than I but endend up in the water too. Again, after 20min of hard work we could rescue his bike, just. We were totally exhausted and worried that this wasn‘t the last river crossing. It was pitch black. When we wanted to move on Daniel‘s bike didn‘t start. I towed him for 1-2km with my bike and he managed to start it again. Luckily there were no more river crossings and after 5km we came to a little village. We stopped at a small shop. After minutes many people and children were gathering around us wondering where we came from and why we were so dirty and soaked. They were interested about our bikes and took photos from us. We got something to drink and discussed what to do now. The shop owner told us there is one place where we can stay over night. A basic room with no running water but it will do for the night. We were absolutely knackered! Below the room was a litte supermarket and the owner allowed us to park the bikes in the shop for the night. We were glad that we and the bike surrived. This was an experience I hope I will definitely never have again.

Ayachucho, Day 50, 230km

In the morning we removed the stones and mud from the bikes as good as we could, checked the air filter and left. My riding boots where still wet and I decided to ride in trainers. The road was better, still a lot of unpaved sections and small landslides but not as worse as the day before. On another pass over the Andes we got stopped by the military again. This time they also searched our bags for drugs and after 15min we were allowed to go again. They were very friendly and interested about our journey. They told us that this road is not so safe and used by smugglers very often. We continued and around 80km before Ayachucho the road down the pass was good again, finally. The landscape changed from jungle to desert, dry with little vegetation only and hence no landslides. From 4500m down to 2500m and the first time since days we could average 80km/h again. When we arrived Thomas was already there waiting for us. 

Pisco, Day 51, 347km

In the morning Daniel investigated his cooling issue and did an oil change on the side walk which is quite a normal thing to do in South America. He couldn’t find the root cause but at least the bike kept the engine temperature and he was fine to continue. The road was nice now. It took us once again over the Andes, up to 4700m. We rode for quite a while at this height on a plateau and it was freezing cold and wet, still some snow on the side of the road. Then we descent down to sea level, the first time since weeks. Stunning landscape down the pass to Pisco where the famous Peruvian drink is coming from. 

Lima/Miraflores, Day 52, 237km

We just had a 3 hour ride along the coast and dunes. When we arrived in Lima we went to Touratech Peru to get new tyres. My Goldentyre lastet 9000km and I didn’t let me down once. Now I fitted the Heidenau K60 Scout. We will take a couple off days of in Lima to organise  the bike transport from Columbia back to Germany, plan the route to Ecuador and relax.