Santa Cruz, Day 34 – 40, Workshop Day 7-13

What I experienced in these two weeks is way too much to write down here. This probably sums it up best: #manana #manana #alwaysmanana #igetthepartsmyself #atidyworkshoplooksdifferent #wherearethetools #ineedaworking torquewrench #weareworkingonit #doyouwantcoffee #youbentmyradiator #iamamechanicagain #iratherdoitmyself #boliviacustomsareuseless

Many thanks to my Dad and Air Europa who made it possible that at least the cylinderhead gasket got to me, the part I needed most. It flew with the captain! The KTM order was still stuck at customs and no date has been given when it will be released. On Wednesday morning I picked it up from the airport and went straight to the workshop. I thought, I am probably on the road again tonight. But when we wanted to install the gasket we realised that one of the 4 threads in the engine block was damaged! This happened during the production of the bike and this is also the reason why the gasket was damaged in the end. This bolt was never tightened to the correct torque and got looser and looser over time until coolant could get into the cylinder. I was devastaded! It is not possible to get a simple gasket into this country within 2 weeks but now I need a new engine block. End of trip I thought. I either buy another cheap moto or do backpacking now, no other options left. And then there was the problem with the temporary import permit of my bike. If I am not leaving Bolivia with it within 30 days I have to pay import tax. And because it will be classified as luxury it will be a lot of money. My bike costs 50% more here than in Germany. Juan Pablo, the importer of KTM Bolivia made a lot of phone calls to KTM in Austria and they decided to make a local solution so I can continue my trip. We took the engine out and the workshop gave it to another worhshop which redrilled the damaged thread. I also needed two new cylinderhead screws too. Ideally you need all 4 to be replaced, expansions screws can only be used once. So they machined two new standard screws (non expansion screws) and reused two old bolts. Juan Pablo told me KTM agreed to this temporary solution and when I am back in Germany I get a new engine block covered by warranty. Fine for me, I just hope this fix will last the next 6000 km I still have ahead of me before I finish my trip in Cartagena / Columbia. On top of that the workshop bent my radiator by accident. This was also fixed temporary and I was ensured I’ll get a new one in Germany too. Special thanks to Juan Pablo and Erwin the mechanic who tried to make everything to bring me back on the road asap.

Chimoré, Day 40, 280km

I left the workshop and went to the next gas station. No fuel for non Bolivians! Refuelling here is a really special thing for foreiners. On some fuel stations they do not sell fuel to foreign number plates at all and if they do they charge you 8.5 Bolivianos (1€) instead of 3.7. But when tell them you don’t need a receipt you can negotiate them down to 5 Bolivianos and they have some extra pocket money. Strangely if you fill up a canister, you pay the local price although you fill it straight after in your bike. Despite all that, the fuel is pretty shit, 84 octane only. Good that I can change the engine setting to cope with the low octane level.

After 1h I got pulled for the first time on one of the many police road blocks we passed so far. To my surprise it went pretty smooth. He just asked for the temporary import permit of the bike, driver license and what I am carrying in my bags. After 3 min I was allowed ride on. I rode until dark and stoped in a little town. Found a cheap hostel to stay where I could park my bike in the lobby. I was probably the only tourist in town. Had a typical Bolivian dinner for 10 Bolivianos (1€) and went to bed early.

La Paz, Day 41, 580km

Left at 6:30 in the morning. I had a long day of riding ahead if I want to make it to La Paz today. I left sea level and the tropical jungle and climbed up over the Andes again up to 4700m. Very foggy, wet and cold up there in the morning. I only stopped for refueling and a snack because I didn’t know how good the road is ahead of me and didn’t want to loose time. It was quite good. Maybe because it is a major connection between the two biggest cities. 9.5h for 580km is the fastest average I have done in Bolivia so far. Over the Andes there are so many lorries creeping up (and breaking down) but on a bike overtaking is quite easy at least. I arrived at Colobri camping just outside of La Paz in the Vale de Luna. Perfect campsite, overlooking the valley from the tent. I was absolutely knackered, but happy!

La Paz, Day 42, Rest day

Spent the afternoon in La Paz. What a place. There is a 1000m height difference between the lower and upper part of the city. Houses are built on almost every inch of the surrounding mountains. Other than in most places of the world, the rich people live in the valley and the poor people further up. The reason for that is simple. Oxygen! You get noticeable more of that at 3100m than on 4100m. La Paz has several cable car lines (built by the Austrians). The purpose is not only a tourist attraction. It is mainly one of the major transport types in the city. A taxi ride up the serpentines would take much longer. We took the green and the yellow and had truly spectacular views over the city. La Paz is definitely a unique city and worth a visit. On the next day we will leave Bolivia and cross over to Peru on the Titicaca lake at 3800m.